Somaliland - robertharding

The road less travelled

I recently visited Somaliland – a peaceful, democratic state which declared independence from Somalia in 1991. Somaliland has overcome many of the troubles of it’s southern neighbour, Somalia, having established a democracy, a police force and its own currency, but has never received international recognition. It is a country that doesn’t officially exist.

Young people on their way to a political rally during the local elections, November 2012©Kate Stanworth

A woman dances at a political rally during the local elections, November 2012©Kate Stanworth

Despite its peaceful status and its efforts to counter Al Shabaab – the extremist group that rules over much of south Somalia and is responsible for the Westgate siege – Somaliland still shares Somalia’s travel status on the UK Foreign Office, which advises against all travel there.

When I visited, however, I felt thoroughly looked after by the locals and I was told that Hargeisa is one of the safest cities in the Horn of Africa. I wandered happily through the bustling central market where money changers dole out huge piles of Somaliland Shillings, bought delicious sticky sweets from stall-holders and sipped Somali tea, spiced with cinnamon, cardamon and cloves.

The bustling centre of Somaliland’s capital, Hargeisa©Kate Stanworth

Many shops, like the one in the photo below, have their wares painted on the shop fronts in bright colours, helping the illiterate members of the population.

Shopkeeper in Hargeisa©Kate Stanworth

A fire eater from the Somaliland Circus©Kate Stanworth

While on commission there, I photographed the local elections and the Hargeisa International Book Fair, a lively and inspiring event in which authors, poets and artists from the horn of Africa and beyond come together to share their work with an extremely receptive and enthusiastic audience.

A girl reads a book at the Hargeisa Book Fair 2013©Kate Stanworth

Women at the Hargeisa Book Fair 2013©Kate Stanworth

Somali culture is known for its oral tradition and poetry is at the centre of society. Living legends, such as Hadraawi, known as the ‘Somali Shakespeare’ came to read their poetry at the book fair, while young and old packed into the auditorium to see their heroes.

Hadraawi, who writes poetry about social justice and peace, at the Hargeisa Book Fair 2013©Kate Stanworth

While on commission I passed by Hargeisa’s energetic livestock market – one of Somaliland’s main exports – to photograph majestic camels, many of which are taken across the Gulf of Aden to be sold in Saudi Arabia.

Travelling across to the seaside city of Berbera, I visited the port where workers unpacked cargo ships arriving from Yemen and beyond, in stifling heat. The port has the potential to increase its traffic, especially from neighbouring landlocked Ethiopia, but it needs some investment in heavy lifting equipment, not to mention the roads that lead there.

While I met many Somalis from across the diaspora – especially from the US and Britain – who were taking their holidays here, there were few tourists who did not have family here. Somaliland is definitely still for the adventurous traveller, but the locals make you feel welcomed, and lonely planet has published a great guide to the country’s attractions. One of the most memorable is the ancient site of Las Geel, where you can see beautifully preserved cave paintings believed to date from between 9000 and 3000 BCE.

My photos will be showing in an exhibition opening on Friday 18th October 2013 in Oxford House, Bethnal Green. See more Somaliland photos, plus my other photo projects here.

In pictures: Somalilanders go crazy for books (bbc.co.uk)

The road less travelled

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